Despite many pictures from three different years all showing a continous ice and mixed line... we found no such line. Most likely it's due to the strange weather this year. People are saying it is the snowiest winter in the past 30 years. I believe them. We have seen many major avalanches and have done more post-holing than I care to admit.
We set out for the Paron with a solid two-weeks of food. We came to hunt bear and make sure we gave an honest attempt on our project. This period would also serve for our acclimitization so we wanted it done right.
We spent the first three nights at 14,500 ft. Did some hiking and eventually moved our basecamp to 16,500 ft. We spent one day completely tent bound as the storm raged.
In total it took us the better part of three days to get a book pack up to the face. The snow hit Marcus' knees so I'll only let you guess where it puts the snow level on my frame.
Despite seeing from a distance that the snow was not continous we hoped to find crack systems or terrain condusive to mixed or aid climibng. No such luck. I spent over two hour trying two different obvious features to reach a ramp that would bring us within a pitch of the ice. I cleared probably a thousand pounds of rotten rock, ran it out, and never got more than 30 feet up. Without a HILTI I'm not sure this goes.
No we are back in Huaraz as the mountains storm. Bad weather this season. The south faces are avalanches waiting-to-happen. We'll head to the seldom climbed, but this season climbable, Churup next. Looking for lemonade... still finding lemons.
Monday, July 20, 2009
Friday, July 03, 2009
PDX a Huaraz
It began six months ago on the way back from a successful ice climbing trip to Lillooet. The plan was hatched, and thus far everything has fallen nicely into place. Marcus finished school a week-ago as a full fledged paramedic. I had just enough time to shift from full-time school to full-time work ensuring I could pay for the next two months.
Just a hours away from departure we're still scrambling. I'll work tonight and tomorrow. Marcus will likely work until 1-2 a.m. on July 5, then meet at the airport at 4 a.m.
The bags are packed. 200# limit between four bags, we're at 196#.
Entropy.
We received a lot of support for this trip. I'm not sure it would have been possible without the help. We're definately excited to get down there, do some climbs and come back to share it with everyone.
Just a hours away from departure we're still scrambling. I'll work tonight and tomorrow. Marcus will likely work until 1-2 a.m. on July 5, then meet at the airport at 4 a.m.
The bags are packed. 200# limit between four bags, we're at 196#.
Entropy.
We received a lot of support for this trip. I'm not sure it would have been possible without the help. We're definately excited to get down there, do some climbs and come back to share it with everyone.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
10,000 Box Jumps
Warm weather or heavy snowfall has continually shut down my alpine dreams this Spring. At last, I needed to break free from local cragging and put some elevation behind me. The freezing levels were high, so we needed to climb higher.
Marcus escaping the sun with the Nisqually Icefall behind. I'm not sure I could have picked a more obscure route for my first trip up Rainier.
The icefall is not without hazards, especially with the sun beating down. We chose to climb fast, and at night. Marcus cruising neve somewhere on the lower icefall. We encountered three ice steps, one rather difficult, but all short or easy enough to merit grade III.
Because the route had only three short ice steps it means, unfortunately, that there is a whole lot of slogging. At least the views were nice.
Marcus escaping the sun with the Nisqually Icefall behind. I'm not sure I could have picked a more obscure route for my first trip up Rainier.
The icefall is not without hazards, especially with the sun beating down. We chose to climb fast, and at night. Marcus cruising neve somewhere on the lower icefall. We encountered three ice steps, one rather difficult, but all short or easy enough to merit grade III.
Because the route had only three short ice steps it means, unfortunately, that there is a whole lot of slogging. At least the views were nice.
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
The Other Creek Crag (with splitters)
The worst part of Memorial Day Weekend is that everyone has it off. I've been spoiled by empty week-day crags, I couldn't handle visiting a crowded area on one of the busiest days of the year. I rolled the dice and headed to Trout Creek, figuring that the heat and grades would keep the crowds at bay. We saw half-a-dozen people and never waited for a climb, temps were managable, perfect...
The main wall at Trout Creek, OR.
David joining the Goldrush.
Awesome twin cracks. Called the Chinese Revolution. Technical stemming with a decent stance just when you absolutely need it.
David fighting the "Monster."
David on the very dificult opening sequence of the "Monster."
The main wall at Trout Creek, OR.
David joining the Goldrush.
Awesome twin cracks. Called the Chinese Revolution. Technical stemming with a decent stance just when you absolutely need it.
David fighting the "Monster."
David on the very dificult opening sequence of the "Monster."
Beware. The climbs start at solid 5.10. Also, if you make tape gloves as poorly as me, you'll be resting your hands for a week following (like me). Can barely put my hands in my pockets but already excited for the next trip.
Saturday, May 23, 2009
Make It Hurt
If its starting too feel easy think again...
"There was an article on the CNN website about weight loss today. The subject recognized his lack of self-discipline so knew that trying to make radical changes wouldn't last. The only way he could remain consistent would be to make small changes, to do some things that weren't too inconvenient or uncomfortable.
He is quoted as saying, "I was probably drinking 10 Cokes a day." The author concluded that by drinking water instead of soda he saved 1,400 calories a day. Then he cut back on snacking. Before making the small changes he ate a 12-ounce bag of Doritos while watching television. The article makes it sound as though this was a daily occurrence and that by eating only a handful each day he removed 1,350 calories from his daily intake.
Apparently it took the fellow "several years to lose 45 pounds doing the 'small changes approach,' but he said it's been worth the wait, because he's more likely to keep the pounds off than if he'd made big changes."
So, the protagonist cut 2750 calories per day from his diet and it took "several years" to lose 45 pounds, less than 20% of his body weight? Wow, if this is the truth then no wonder people find it so darn difficult to strip away all that hard-earned blubber. And if this is the truth then our experience (and that of others) with remaking and remodeling the human body must be make-believe.
If the penalty and remedy is as comfortable and convenient as the sloth and lack of attention that brought someone to their weight-loss epiphany it will not be effective but articles like this and countless "painless" dietary interventions promise exactly that. For fuck's sake make it hurt, make it painful, make the penalty so heinous that no snack or treat could possibly be worth it and suddenly, dieting - or simply eating and drinking in proportion to expenditure - will be easy. Whether talking about diet or fiscal responsibility, a bailout won't change human behavior."
-From Gym Jones
"There was an article on the CNN website about weight loss today. The subject recognized his lack of self-discipline so knew that trying to make radical changes wouldn't last. The only way he could remain consistent would be to make small changes, to do some things that weren't too inconvenient or uncomfortable.
He is quoted as saying, "I was probably drinking 10 Cokes a day." The author concluded that by drinking water instead of soda he saved 1,400 calories a day. Then he cut back on snacking. Before making the small changes he ate a 12-ounce bag of Doritos while watching television. The article makes it sound as though this was a daily occurrence and that by eating only a handful each day he removed 1,350 calories from his daily intake.
Apparently it took the fellow "several years to lose 45 pounds doing the 'small changes approach,' but he said it's been worth the wait, because he's more likely to keep the pounds off than if he'd made big changes."
So, the protagonist cut 2750 calories per day from his diet and it took "several years" to lose 45 pounds, less than 20% of his body weight? Wow, if this is the truth then no wonder people find it so darn difficult to strip away all that hard-earned blubber. And if this is the truth then our experience (and that of others) with remaking and remodeling the human body must be make-believe.
If the penalty and remedy is as comfortable and convenient as the sloth and lack of attention that brought someone to their weight-loss epiphany it will not be effective but articles like this and countless "painless" dietary interventions promise exactly that. For fuck's sake make it hurt, make it painful, make the penalty so heinous that no snack or treat could possibly be worth it and suddenly, dieting - or simply eating and drinking in proportion to expenditure - will be easy. Whether talking about diet or fiscal responsibility, a bailout won't change human behavior."
-From Gym Jones
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Storming the Castle
It's not often in the PNW that weather turns out to be better than forcasted. In fact, today was the only time I can ever remember the weather working for me. Clouds, rain and snow awaited us in Government Camp but as we worked up the winding road to Timberline stars began to appear. We left the parking lot with clear calm and cold weather... perfect.
Marcus cruising up the base of the ridge.
The long traverse.
Marcus climbing up to the ridgeline. It is worth doing this route for this one pitch alone. Cams, screws, pickets, stoppers, pick torques, ice and rock in one pitch.
Castle Crags is probably more interesting the way we did it, by turning up and climbing steeper ground to the ridge, only to rapppel off the backside back to the Zig Zag Glacier. There is so much interesting climbing on Mt. Hood even if they are less significant and not well-known routes. Even though we found probably half a dozen rappel stations on the backside of this route, it felt like we were the first ones there. Alpine climbing at its purest.
Marcus cruising up the base of the ridge.
The long traverse.
Marcus climbing up to the ridgeline. It is worth doing this route for this one pitch alone. Cams, screws, pickets, stoppers, pick torques, ice and rock in one pitch.
Castle Crags is probably more interesting the way we did it, by turning up and climbing steeper ground to the ridge, only to rapppel off the backside back to the Zig Zag Glacier. There is so much interesting climbing on Mt. Hood even if they are less significant and not well-known routes. Even though we found probably half a dozen rappel stations on the backside of this route, it felt like we were the first ones there. Alpine climbing at its purest.
Saturday, March 28, 2009
2 hr driving + 4 hr climbing + 8 hr TV
I've been on the Icefields Parkway probably a dozen times and I've never had as beautiful a day as when we climbed the Weeping Wall. We had perfect bluebird skies, warm temps and no wind. I think all of us were foaming at the mouth for some alpine that day, but the avy activity was pretty intense, 28 degree slopes were sliding!
Chad ice, no, snow, no mashed potato climbing on the Weeping Wall Left. We were pretty happy to be off this one. Note to self: south facing + warm temps + direct sun = climb somewhere else.
Getting hooked on the Tokkum Pole.
At my personal crux the akward mantle/difficult clip.
Wesley yarding up powerful moves off the deck on Swank.
Chad ice, no, snow, no mashed potato climbing on the Weeping Wall Left. We were pretty happy to be off this one. Note to self: south facing + warm temps + direct sun = climb somewhere else.
Chad opted for an early return after running up Louise Falls with brittle conditions. Marcus, Wesley and I stayed on for two more days of climbing. The continued avalanche hazard sent us back to the lowlands. Marble Canyon has zero avlanche hazard which seeemed just the right amount. What we found was a very unique, awesome setting and steep lines with short mixed steps to climb out of the canyon. This is just across the road from Haffner with a five minute approach. Put this on the list for low motivation days.
Getting hooked on the Tokkum Pole.
As per tradition, on our drive out we stopped at Haffner Creek to get a forearm pump before we atrophy on the long car ride home. A M-line called "Swank" had caught our eye earlier in the week and we decided to give it a go. It ended up being another classic mixed line. The crux involved steep rock, a deep right hand lock off, and a shaft torque high with the left tool... wild. Throw in a couple difficult sloppy mantles and a difficult clip and you have an engaging mixed climb.
At my personal crux the akward mantle/difficult clip.
Wesley yarding up powerful moves off the deck on Swank.
What Happens in Prague Stays in Prague
Spring had arrived in the Canadian Rockies. We were confronted with sunny skies, temperatures a little too warm for ice climbing and a pretty mean avy cycle. Despite this we were able to get good climbs in every day of the trip. In the process we discovered some gems in areas always overlooked.
Day 1: Looking for a warmup we headed to Carlsberg. Avalanche danger was considerable, but it is a protected climb from all but the biggest alpine slides. Once up pitch one we saw a powder blast from a slide down Heineken Hall... time to go. We salvaged the day with an afternoon run up Louise Falls.
Day 2: 50 degree temps predicted, we decided to skip the ice and stick to mixed. Bear Spirit crag fit the billing and we found a fun line "Spoiler" on the walls left side. Powerful moves up a steep corner crack yielded to a stem onto the ice and 20 feet of bolt protected ice hooks. A must do if you ever find yourself at Bear Spirit.
Spoiler works up the obtuse corner behind the tree trending right toward the ice.
Day 3: Whiteman Falls is typically out-of-shape by late March but recent reports indicated otherwise. 8 inches of snow fell overnight but it didn't affect this gem. A couple hours of skiing and hiking brought us up to this wild piece of ice.
Whiteman Falls
The first pitch started on the right side, traversed around to the left working through an ice chimney and through a tunnel into a protected ice cave on the left. The third pitch climbed out the ceiling of the ice cave before pulling onto a long pitch of verticle and overhanging ice. Amazing exposure, an absolute must climb.
Climbing out the ceiling of the ice cave on Whiteman Falls.
Curtain Call
Day 1: Looking for a warmup we headed to Carlsberg. Avalanche danger was considerable, but it is a protected climb from all but the biggest alpine slides. Once up pitch one we saw a powder blast from a slide down Heineken Hall... time to go. We salvaged the day with an afternoon run up Louise Falls.
Day 2: 50 degree temps predicted, we decided to skip the ice and stick to mixed. Bear Spirit crag fit the billing and we found a fun line "Spoiler" on the walls left side. Powerful moves up a steep corner crack yielded to a stem onto the ice and 20 feet of bolt protected ice hooks. A must do if you ever find yourself at Bear Spirit.
Spoiler works up the obtuse corner behind the tree trending right toward the ice.
Day 3: Whiteman Falls is typically out-of-shape by late March but recent reports indicated otherwise. 8 inches of snow fell overnight but it didn't affect this gem. A couple hours of skiing and hiking brought us up to this wild piece of ice.
Whiteman Falls
The first pitch started on the right side, traversed around to the left working through an ice chimney and through a tunnel into a protected ice cave on the left. The third pitch climbed out the ceiling of the ice cave before pulling onto a long pitch of verticle and overhanging ice. Amazing exposure, an absolute must climb.
Climbing out the ceiling of the ice cave on Whiteman Falls.
We opted for a rest day to refuel and refresh for an attempt on Curtain Call the next day. Curtain Call saw several ascents this season with reports of soft spring ice. Emboldened by our experience on Whiteman Falls we went for it. Unfortunately temperatures dropped 40 degrees over the 24 hours before our attempt. We found extremely fragile chandy ice, not soft spring ice. The lone line that had ice stable enough to be reasonable had multiple contraction fractures thorugh the pillar. In retrospect we would have been better off going a day earlier when it was more plastic. Disappointing to miss our opportunity but definately on the tick list for next year.
Curtain Call
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